The 2003 Hermitage is a beauty that shows the best of this extreme, freakishly hot vintage. Full-bodied, plump, textured and concentrated, it offers ample plums, violets, barbecued meats, licorice and a touch of mint. The tannin showed a touch of worrisome rusticity at first, but this was quickly covered up by masses of sweet fruit and texture as the wine sat in the glass. I'd drink bottles over the coming decade, and assuming its tannin stays nicely balanced and sweet, it will hold for even longer.

Ripe and concentrated, this shows plum, currant and cherry fruit intertwined with spice, espresso and black licorice notes. Has a tarry, slightly raisined edge to the finish, but the structure and heady fruit take an encore, boding well for cellaring, though you may always wrestle with the tannins. Best from 2008 through 2017. 3,000 cases made. -JM

A spicy, muscular example of Hermitage, this wine features red currant flavors tinged with darker shades of cassis and chocolate. It’s slightly creamy in the mouth, turning dry and tannnic on the finish. Drink 2010–2020.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 90