From a parcel of old vines still owned by the Giroud family, the 2005 Beaune Les Cras lives up to its name in the densely chalky, stony underpinnings it offers to fresh mulberry fruit. In the mouth, this proves strikingly viscous, with deep meatiness and minerality tinged with brown spices, and fresh, ripe yet faintly tart fruit. It finishes with a vivid reprise of chalk and stone. This fascinating wine is for those with 15-20 years’ patience and a geological predilection. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.

From a parcel of old vines still owned by the Giroud family, the 2005 Beaune Les Cras lives up to its name in the densely chalky, stony underpinnings it offers to fresh mulberry fruit. In the mouth, this proves strikingly viscous, with deep meatiness and minerality tinged with brown spices, and fresh, ripe yet faintly tart fruit. It finishes with a vivid reprise of chalk and stone. This fascinating wine is for those with 15-20 years’ patience and a geological predilection. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April.Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.