The 1986 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain, from another hot year where Spitz's wines stood out, has a boisterous nose of spices, spring onions, fennel, and minerals. Its chewy, caramelized mineral, raspberry, as well as poached/spiced pear-flavored personality has the intensity and texture of a great red wine. This hugely complex, prodigiously balanced, and awesomely long wine earned a "Wow!" in my notes.