The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain offers remarkable richness of fruit allied to magnificent, multidimensional expression of minerality as salt, pepper, broth, ore, and wet stone, in a manner that seems to reflect the layered mica schiste, sand, and clay of this site. Grapefruit, lemon, and brown spice notes in the nose usher in a palate with dynamic interplay of citrus, pit fruit, spice, and mineral. This wine is the epitome of “interplay.” I would feel comfortable – not to mention privileged – to follow it for 8-10 years in the cellar. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700