The 1994 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain is a wine with pinpoint precision, sensational ripeness, admirable length, and the highly-extracted style Hirtzberger has obtained in this vintage. There is a peppery, nutty, citrusy fruit character to this distinctive wine that is well-marked by its terroir. Still young and unevolved, it should easily last for another decade. Franz Hirtzberger's 1994s performed splendidly in my tasting and readers are encouraged to try and find a bottle or two of his exquisite wines.Importer: a Terry Theise Selection, Milton S. Kronheim & Co., Jessup, MD; tel. (410) 724-3369