The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Wachstum Toni Bodenstein represents the first harvest from un-irrigated high terraces – until recently scrub and woods – in Achleiten (to be labeled as such next vintage) that Bodenstein densely-planted with more than 120 different clones and selections from all over the region, and which are being trained to single posts in the ancient manner (“Stockkultur”). Pungent orange zest, rhubarb, tobacco, and wood smoke mingle with roasted pumpkin and toasted nuts on a strikingly creamy, yet also sappy and invigoratingly juicy palate. For all of its concentration, and palpable sense of extract, this finishes with remarkable levity and elegance, not to mention length. At 14.2%, this is the highest in alcohol of any of this year’s collection, yet there is no taste-able trace. It also had very low acidity (with the result that even its very slight residual sugar legally disqualified it for Smaragd), and that, too, is not noticeable as any deficiency. Who knows how it will age – but why not let it try for a decade (if you can locate any)? This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

At 1500 feet, this vineyard is the highest in the Wachau. The wine has elegance as well as richness, an impressive combination of white pear spice, citrus acidity and a final burst of mango. Definitely for aging. Imported by Vin Divino——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 93