The Drouhin’s excellent value 2007 Chorey-les-Beaune displays sweetly ripe cherry with hints of nut oils, brown spices, peat, and chalk. Richer than its 2008 counterpart though less bright, it nevertheless preserves a sense of interactive complexity and length you would not expect for the price.
“2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770