Domaine Brusset’s 2007 Gigondas Tradition Les Grands Montmirail exhibits an inky/purple color, no evidence of new oak (this was one of the first estates to use new small barrels for aging some of their wine), and a full-bodied mouthfeel with loads of black cherry, black currant, licorice, and graphite notes. This well-made, fleshy, succulent, exuberant, flamboyant Gigondas can be enjoyed over the next 5-8 years. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Southern Wine & Spirits, and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

Black cherry, smoke and game nose. Earthy, slight oak on palate. Black fruit gains energy, tannins and power. Good, local stamp.