The outstanding, deep, full-bodied 2009 Gigondas Tradition Les Grands Montmirail offers notes of black cherries, plums, Asian soy, forest floor and truffle. With soft tannins as well as low acidity, this luscious Gigondas should drink nicely for 7-8 years. This large and important domaine has vineyards spread throughout the southern Rhone, primarily in Gigondas and its neighboring villages. Domaine Brusset was among the first estates to introduce small barrels (barriques) for aging their top cuvee, the old vine Les Hauts de Montmirail. After an extravagant use of wood in the early days, they have gotten the marriage between wood and fruit to a nearly ideal point. Those with a phobia of oak should seek out the Traditional cuvee.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Southern Wine & Spirits, and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100