The big-styled 1999 Valpolicella Classico Ripasso was made by passing the Valpolicella must over the Amarone's pressings, or pomace. This enriches the wine, and provides more body, color, and meatiness. The 1999 Ripasso exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, and a Rhone Valley-like nose of pepper, earth, black fruits, and roasted meats. Medium to full-bodied, with super fruit intensity, fine purity, a soft underbelly, and velvety tannin, it will drink well for 7-8 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Pretty aromas of smoked meat, tire rubber and ripe plums. The flavors run toward black cherry and pepper, with a touch of creaminess making for an easy mouthfeel. Very silky and full; quite a pleasure to drink. ——W.E.(5/1/2003)—— 91