The 2004 Valpolicella Superiore Ripassa (80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Sangiovese) comes across as big and somewhat chunky, but it is also full of character. Deep in color, its powerful frame is packed with dark, jammy fruit, licorice and cocoa, as well as tannins that will require a few months of bottle age to soften. It is an outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010.