The 2003 Taurasi Pago dei Fusi, here in its first vintage, is an explosive, super-ripe wine packed with smoke, chocolate, leather, spices and wild cherries. This is a decadent, opulent Taurasi with just enough minerality to keep things in balance. The French oak is a bit prominent in 2003, perhaps accented by the ripeness of the vintage, yet the wine reveals gorgeous textural finesse and exceptional balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2029. These new releases from Terredora are among the most impressive I tasted. From top to bottom these are serious wines readers will not want to miss. The 2009 whites, all of which are aged in steel, reflect the rich, generous style of the vintage, while the 2004 Taurasis are simply off the charts. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200