Terredora’s 2006 Taurasi Pago dei Fusi is striking. It boasts gorgeous inner perfume, layers of black fruit and tons of pure structure. Licorice, tobacco, incense, scorched earth and a host of dark aromas and flavors add quite a bit of complexity and nuance in this bold, full-throttle wine. Despite its full-bodied personality, there is an understated power to the Pago dei Fusi that is remarkable. Once again, one of the most distinctive wines being made in Campania today, the 2006 remains totally fascinating and compelling as it sits in the glass, with striking perfume and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. I learned of Lucio Mastroberardino’s untimely passing just as we were about to go to press. Just 45 years old, the loss of Mastroberardino leaves a huge hole in the world of wine. The Mastroberardino family’s Terredora di Paolo turns out compelling wines pretty much across their entire range. That said, I have a weak spot for the entry-level Aglianico and the Taurasis. As a reminder to readers, Terredora di Paolo was created when the Mastroberardino family split up their historic estate in 1994. Walter Mastroberardino’s side of the family kept the vineyards but gave up the right to use their name in marketing. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200