Swan’s longtime winemaker, Rod Berglund, turns his Pinot-esque hand to Gewurztraminer with this well-crafted, aromatic young white wine. Dry and crisply acidic, it shows intricate flavors of citrus, yellow apricot, lychee and honeysuckle flower, along with an enormous burst of dusty Asian spices.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 87