The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc McGinley emerges from the glass with varietal aromatics of tomato leaf, sage and mint in a bold if slightly unusual style. McGinley is a warmer microclimate on the eastern side of the Santa Ynez Valley, which comes through in the wine’s body and depth. The Sauvignon was aged in French oak and the malolactic fermentation was blocked. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. I admit I have mixed feelings about the wines I tasted at Ojai with proprietor Adam Tolmach and winemaker Fabien Castel. On the positive side, the wines are classy, elegant and also very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. At the same time, it is obvious yields aren’t particularly low, which is somewhat mystifying considering Tolmach works with first-rate sites and is clearly getting pristine fruit. Don’t get me wrong, these are excellent wines?but they could be truly great, and maybe beyond great. The cellars are kept cold year-round, while the approach to winemaking remains quite minimalist. All of the whites are fermented in barrel, with full malolactic fermentation and very low levels of new oak. The Pinots are aged on their lees and are racked only before bottling. The Pinots see 25-35% new oak, while the Syrahs see even less. In recent years Tolmach has begun experimenting with whole clusters for both his Pinots and Syrahs. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

What’s nice about this wine is its bone dryness, and the way the acidity scours and cleanses the palate. It’s subtle in citrus, grass and hay flavors, with complex herb, spice and mineral complexities. A superior California Sauvignon Blanc, and a superb food wine. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 91