The profound, medium ruby-colored 2002 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts has an intensely spicy, waxy black fruit-dominated nose. On the palate, this wine expands magnificently, unleashing soft, velvety waves of fresh pulp-laden red fruits. Concentrated, powerful, graceful, and well-structured, it is a superb example of its vineyard’s potential. Projected maturity: 2006-2015. Note: This estate’s 2002s are not yet released. The above estimate is based on the prices of the 2001s, taking into account that the dollar has significantly dropped.Importers include: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

The 2002 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Beaux Monts displayed a tensile, energetic bouquet that appeared to possess more focus than a 1989 Beaux Monts from Lalou that I had tasted a few days earlier. The aromatics are heavenly--mulberry, maraschino cherry, tobacco and a hint of seaweed, all beautifully defined and still surprisingly youthful. The palate is sensual, refined and backward. There is real vibrancy to this Beaux Monts, notes of raspberry coulis, red cherries and a touch of cola. It gently fans out on the finish, caressing in texture, refined and pure. I wonder whether this will actually improve with further bottle age? I suspect it has reached its plateau, but will continue giving drinking pleasure for many years.