All of the Leroy 2005s boast deep, dark color, but I should note that the 2005 Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts sets a new standard among them for noir saturation, as it does also for sheer aromatic intensity, albeit with a familiar cast, including black cherry, tobacco, and lilies. Voluminous and luminous in the mouth, this exhibits a continuation of the Leroy alliance of liqueur-like and fresh fruit aspects, amazingly precocious and beguiling creaminess of texture, and deep meatiness, buried truffles, and soy-like savor. It may miss the mystery of a few of its predecessors, but like Leroy’s Santenots, this Beaux Monts is compellingly sweet, rich, seamless and pure. There is a sultry sense about it, but no real heat in the finish. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400