The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is a beautifully fresh, perfumed version of this wine. It reveals a lovely core of ripe red fruit intermingled with sweet toasted oak and a winsome, attractive personality. Although the 2005 shows outstanding balance, clarity and finesse for the vintage, it remains relatively small-scaled Rancia. Still, its notable freshness should allow it to age gracefully for a decade or so. I would purchase the 2005 to drink over the mid-term, while waiting for the superlative 2004 to come around. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is a beautiful, silky wine most likely best suited for medium-term drinking. It is one of the vintages of Rancia where balance and harmony reign supreme. The 2005 is drinking well today, but also has more than enough brightness to develop beautifully for another handful of years at the very least. Floral, minty notes add lift on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina’s flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces of data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson again recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995.I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid-1990s that goes straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2. Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3. Combines power and elegance 4. Aging potential: 20-30 years

Exhibits pleasant fresh blackberry, citrus and cedar character on a medium body, with a clean fruit and mineral finish. Clean and tasty, with a long, succulently fruity aftertaste. Subtle and delicious. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. -JS

Riserva Rancia opens with elegant hues of garnet and dark ruby and offers sophisticated notes of old spice, cured leather and dried currant berries. It achieves elegance, harmony and delivers pristine and persistent flavors that would marry red meat, pork or lamb.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 92