An intense, complex cassis, toast, curry and espresso bouquet opens this dense, balanced wine. A smooth feel, creamy vanillin, tart berry and tobacco flavors, and a long, tangy fruit finish with supple tannins complete the package. A heavily oaked wine that some tasters found sexy; others thought it overwooded—your take will depend on your appetite for oak.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 87