The most structured, aromatic, complex, and richest is the 2004 Syrah Reserve Viking Estate Vineyard. Copious quantities of black raspberry jam-like notes intermixed with cassis, spring flowers, licorice, and earth emerge from this medium to full-bodied effort. Good freshness and length suggest it will last for 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 239-8980; Fax (805) 239-4671

A dramatically dark, ripe wine that’s nowhere near ready to drink now, due to the tannins. They’re hard and strong and effectively shut the wine into astringent lockdown mode. But there’s a solid core of blackberries, and the wine seems to have the balance to pass through this tannic sea into broader, softer oceans. Try after 2008.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 89