The 2006 Syrah Reserve Viking Estate is a French Hermitage-like effort made from the Estrella clone of Syrah (believed to have come from Chapoutier’s Hermitage vineyards). A chalky character interwoven with copious quantities of damp earth, licorice, lavender, blackberries, and cassis are followed by a full-bodied, gorgeously proportioned, layered, superbly concentrated wine displaying tremendous persistence as well as length. Both subtle and powerful, it is a brilliant example of west side Paso Robles Syrah. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste Adelaida Cellars’ Schoolhouse line of wines, which usually represent very good values. The quality at this estate continues to be impressive thanks to the efforts of their top-flight winemaker, Terry Culton.Tel. (805) 239-8980; Fax (805) 239-4671

Delicious right now, with fine, firm tannins and good acidity giving structure to the upfront flavors of grilled blackberries, black cherries, Dr. Pepper cola, sauteed wild mushrooms and black pepper, with a touch of balsamic. Easy to drink, with its soft, attractive mouthfeel.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 91