Antonio Mastrojanni has made a classic, old-style Brunello. There is a chunky solidity to the wine, with black, tarry fruit over toasty, but not new wood, flavors. It is firm, robust and, at this stage, still very dry from fruit tannins. Like many Mastrojanni vintages, it needs time—in this case, at least 10 years. ——R.V.(8/1/2002)—— 93