Huge aromas of honeysuckle, hazelnut, and smoke soar from the 2004 Chardonnay Clare (produced from an old Wente clone off the Hyde Vineyard). With superb fruit, more tightness and minerality, but good smokiness, spiciness, and richness, it comes across as the most structured and backward of these Chardonnays. As I said last year, DuMol is one of my favorite wineries, primarily because of the passion and commitment to quality of owner Kerry Murphy and his winemaker, Andy Smith. Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Chloe (94+), 2003 Chardonnay Isobel (94), 2003 Pinot Noir Finn (93), 2003 Pinot Noir Ryan (90+), 2003 Syrah Eddie’s Patch (95). Tel. (925) 254-8922; Fax (925) 254-8942