Even in ripe, jammy vintages such as 1998, Domaine Drouhin keeps a sleek, polished profile. In 1999, everyone made tight, lean wines, and this one takes that ageworthy style to an extra dimension. Clear and bright, young and hard, it suggests rather than showcases layers of mineral, earth and red fruit. Firm and elegant, but give it lots of cellar time. ——P.G.(12/31/2001)—— 90