The 2007 Gewurztraminer is clean and focused in its exotic notes of passion fruit, spices and flowers. It is the only wine of this group which undergoes malolactic fermentation, which adds a further dimension of depth. It remains incredibly pure and vibrant in the glass. I suppose it’s only fitting that part of the fruit for this wine is sourced from vineyards in Termeno, where Gewurztraminer was first discovered. This wine is a steal for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. I was particularly impressed with the value-priced wines I tasted from Tramin this year. Tramin is a cooperative with an astonishing 290 members and 575 acres under vine, dimensions which are virtually unheard of in Italy. Coops are fairly common in this part of Italy, and that arrangement is in no way a reflection on quality, a point these wines make quite eloquently. Tramin’s first vintage goes all the way back to 1899, a lineage few wineries today can match. All of these bottlings come from the local DOCs. The whites are aged exclusively in stainless steel, while the reds see some oak. Simply put, this is a beautiful set of entry-level wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620