From Howell Mountain, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho Del Oso spends a little longer in oak than the other Sbragia wines, about 24 months. It offers up a deep ruby/purple color and lots of graphite, blackcurrant, floral notes, and more blackberry and cassis on the mouth. It’s dense, full-bodied and ripe with underlying minerality. Drink it over the next 12-15+ years.

With the exception of the lean, austere, tannic, broodingly backward 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso, Ed Sbragia has done well with his Cabernet Sauvignon portfolio. Ed Sbragia, the highly renowned winemaker at Beringer, has settled into his own operation, producing just over 5,000 cases of reds and whites that focus on Sbragia’s strengths, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. He is also experimenting with small quantities of Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.Tel. (866) 222-4342

Shows classic Howell Mountain tight, hard tannins that lock down the flavors and make the wine astringent. But what flavors they are. Just detonates on the palate with massive blackberries, currants, plums, chocolate and cedar, with incredible depth and length. Desperately needs time. Best after 2011.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 94