Aged in 100% new oak, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso Vineyard is Sbragia’s most mineral-laced wine, no doubt from the high-elevation vineyards of Howell Mountain. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits classic tobacco leaf, licorice, red and black currant and wet rock-like characteristics. Full-bodied, dense and still youthful, it is just entering its plateau of adolescence. It should continue to drink well for another 10-15+ years. The longtime, bigger-than-life winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, now produces wines under his own label. All four of his 2003s admirably demonstrate his obvious talent. Tel. (866) 222-4342

From the higher elevation 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso on Howell Mountain, more chocolate, crushed blueberries, minerals, and vanillin are present in this medium to full-bodied, impressively endowed Cabernet Sauvignon that is more structured and linear than the Monte Rosso. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Tel. (866) 222-4342

Always decadently opulent in blackberry, currant and chocolate fudge, the ’03 seems softer than past vintages, and while it’s probably not an ager, it impresses now. It may come from Howell Mountain, but the tannins are as melted as butter on toast. The winemaker suggests steak barbecued in olive oil and rosemary, an assessment I would not argue with.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 93