Far sweeter, richer fruit can be found in the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso. This wine is backward, but displays loads of graphite, pen ink, crushed rock, and black raspberry and blueberry fruit in a medium to full-bodied style. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 15-20 years. The well-known, former winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, has fashioned these cuvees at his home estate. His Sonoma offerings will be reviewed in the February issue of The Wine Advocate. However, I have included his Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso Vineyard as well as his Andolsen Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek. Tel. (866) 222-4342

This is the most accessible, most interesting and most compelling of Sbragia’s new Cabernets. It’s extraordinarily powerful in the potent, sweetly refined tannins and ripe flavors of blackberries and cassis, leading to a long, rich finish. You can drink it now, but it will age effortlessly for a good 8–10 years.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 95