From their oldest vines comes the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes, composed of 95% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre. This emerges from the high plateau of La Crau in the eastern part of the appellation, and the vines are 85+ years of age. Huge, sandy, underbrush notes, with pepper, black cherry jam and hints of strawberries and spice box are all present in this fragrant, full-bodied wine, which is rich, savory and irresistible already. It should drink well for at least a decade or more. (Not yet released)Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173