The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro is a gorgeous expression that sits firmly on a base of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and crushed river stone. There is a spot of ripe fruit and candied raspberry that comes into focus as the wine warms in the glass. The wine is slightly shorter in the mouth, but it quickly makes up for that, thanks to balanced elegance, fine tannins and tangy acidity.