The 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco dell’Oriolo is an elegant, floral Dolcetto with an almost Pinot-like expression of red fruit. This restrained, beautiful Dolcetto is well worth seeking out. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Proprietor Luigi Scavino is of course most famous for the superb Barolos he makes, but readers should also pay attention to his entry-level offerings. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411