The 2006 The Lucky Lizard Chardonnay was barrel-fermented and aged for 9 months in 30% new French oak. Medium straw-colored, it exhibits aromas and flavors of mineral, white peach, baked apple, nectarine, and citrus. Restrained but tasty, it has attractive layering of flavors, excellent balance, and a long finish. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on Rhone varietals, is wide-ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.darenberg.com.au; Also tasted: 2005 The Stump Jump Shiraz (82), 2005 The Custodian Grenache (84), 2005 Sticks and Stones Tempranillo, Grenache, Souzao (84)

Light yellow. Smoky, expressive, lees-accented pear, melon and peach aromas are perked up by baking spices. Fresh and precise, showing admirably deep but refreshing orchard fruit flavors and a bitter citrus pith quality. The smoky quality returns on the long, spicy finish. Reminds me of a Pouilly-Fuisse.