The 2007 The Lucky Lizard Chardonnay was barrel-fermented and aged for eight months in French oak, 35% new. It is light straw-colored with a nose redolent of baked Granny Smith apples. Creamy and layered on the palate, it has excellent depth and concentration and should drink well over the next two years. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on the Rhone varieties, is wide ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom. The winery produces a bevy of value priced reds and whites that were reviewed in Issue 178. They should not be overlooked. At the higher end of the portfolio there is one white wine on which to report.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.darenberg.com.au

Gold-tinged straw. Smoky orchard fruits and toasty lees on the nose, with a light vanilla undertone. Poached pear and apple flavors coat the palate and are braced by gentle acidity, which adds back-end snap. A rich, fleshy style, but not heavy.

D’Arenberg is better known for its red wines, but this promising effort from the Adelaide Hills is one to watch. Vanilla and custardy notes mark the nose, while the flavors turn toasty and cereal-like, backed by plenty of mixed citrus fruit. It’s not overly rich or ripe, but has long, mouthwatering finish.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 91