The 1992 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard's label suggests the alcohol content is a whopping 15.4%. If that shocks readers' sensitivity, keep in mind that many grand cru white burgundies, particularly from years such as 1992 and 1989, often contain 15% alcohol. Alcohol not only preserves a wine, it adds a sweet, creamy texture to it. Many winemakers are so frightened by the possibility of producing a wine high in alcohol that they harvest their vineyard before the grapes are physiologically ripe. The results are predictable - tart, lean, compact, green wines. What is amazing about this 1992 Chardonnay is that the alcohol is barely perceptible on the palate. I am sure anyone who gulped down a whole bottle would realize its power, but the point is that the wine's merit is its remarkable concentration and intensity. At first I thought the aromatics were muted, but after leaving the bottle open for a day, wonderful honeyed, citrusy, floral blossom, and vanilla aromas emerged. As readers may imagine, the wine is super-concentrated and intense. It will age magnificently for 4-6 years. This small winery sells its entire production via a mailing list. They have carved out an outstanding reputation for lavishly-oaked, expansively-flavored, decadent Pinot Noir. But the 1992 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard and the 1991 Zinfandel demonstrate that Williams-Selyem also has a fine touch with other varietals. They are certainly not afraid of producing high alcohol wines. Since readers will be unable to find any of Williams-Selyem's wines at retail outlets, they may wish to call the winery at 707-887-7480 to be placed on the mailing list.