The 2008 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard has a beautiful nose of nectarine, white peach, subtle honey, brioche, and orange rind. Full-bodied, with good acidity, beautifully pure fruit, a sumptuous texture and very good minerality, this wine should drink well for 3-4 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Amazingly rich, one of the most opulent Chardonnays you can drink now. Just wows the mouth with pineapple, pear, exotic tropical fruit, creme brulee, vanilla custard, buttered toast and cinnamon spice flavors that go on and on through the finish. Also shows fine, tart acidity, which provides needed balance. Yes, it’s superripe, but this is what California Chardonnay does at its best.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 95