The Cairanne called La Ventabren looks terrific in 2004 and for drinking over the next few years has a big advantage over its younger sibling. All in all, these are very impressive wines from an up-and-coming estate in Rasteau. This is an up-and-coming, relatively large estate at 160 acres spread throughout the appellations of the Cotes du Rhone, Cairanne, Rasteau, and Roaix. The renowned southern Rhone oenologist Philippe Cambie oversees the winemaking, which seems to be going from strength to strength. There is a considerable percentage of old vines at the estate, and the quality of these wines, which are still very reasonably priced, range from very good to outstanding. Importer: Jeff Welburn Selections, New York, NY; tel: (212) 247-2252; www.jeffwelburn.com