The 2005 La Ventabren, which again shows tart, high acids, sweet and sour cherries, and a compact personality. The wine exhibits loads of spicy, peppery, sweet kirsch notes intermixed with raspberry, earth, and animal. This is mostly Grenache with some old Carignan and old Cinsault vines added to the blend. All in all, these are very impressive wines from an up-and-coming estate in Rasteau. This is an up-and-coming, relatively large estate at 160 acres spread throughout the appellations of the Cotes du Rhone, Cairanne, Rasteau, and Roaix. The renowned southern Rhone oenologist Philippe Cambie oversees the winemaking, which seems to be going from strength to strength. There is a considerable percentage of old vines at the estate, and the quality of these wines, which are still very reasonably priced, range from very good to outstanding. Importer: Jeff Welburn Selections, New York, NY; tel: (212) 247-2252; www.jeffwelburn.com