Produced from yields averaging 26 hectoliters/hectare, the medium-to-dark ruby-colored Volnay Fremiets offers beautifully refined aromas of sweet cherries. It has medium-to-full-body, and a lush and silky-textured flavor profile jam-packed with gorgeously ripe strawberries and tangy currants. Its floral, soft tannin-filled and exceptionally long finish serve as testimony to Marchand's skills as a winemaker. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A Becky Wasserman Selection, French Fax # 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; tel (415) 398-1200, Martin-Scott, Lake Success, NY; tel (516) 327-0808. And in Massachusetts: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.