The 2009 Volnay Fremiets is delicate and graceful in its fragrant fruit. This approachable, open Volnay comes across as transparent, weightless and totally seductive. Leroux used 20% whole clusters in the final blend, in his customary manner, which in this case was 100% whole clusters on a small part of the oldest vines. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Readers who want to experience the thrill of 2009 without spending a fortune should focus on Comte Armand’s Pommard 1er Cru, which is shaping up to be the one of the under the radar success stories of the vintage. Winemaker Benjamin Leroux is immensely gifted, and the work he is doing at Comte Armand is simply brilliant. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640