The 2005 Volnay Fremiets (with the ferrous top soil of neighboring Pommard and the chalky bedrock of Volnay) is superbly perfumed with buddleia, black cherry, and licorice. Smooth and polished on the palate, with its abundant tannins so fine grained as to almost melt into the background, this displays fine precision of lasting black fruits, flowers, licorice and chalk. I would count on enjoying it after 5-7 years. Young Benjamin Leroux took over in 1999 from Pascal Marchand (who made this estate’s modern reputation), and the wines have never tasted better, nor more ageworthy. The domaine has also continued to grow – through purchase and rental – beyond their famous 13 acre core property, the Clos des Epeneaux. The wines had never been racked when I tasted them – that will only happen when they are assembled for bottling (unfiltered) – so allowance must be made for slight reduction. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.