The 2009 Volnay Caillerets is one of the subtler polished wines in this lineup. A model of weightless elegance, it presents hints of rose petals, sweet red cherries, licorice and minerals, all wrapped up in a sensual package that is impossible to resist. The wine’s understated finesse and inner sense of energy are both remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600