The 2008 Chardonnay has a nose of toasted peach, grapefruit marmalade and hints of pork crackling, with fennel flower, turmeric and stewed apple. In the mouth, the wine is still completely taut, at 14 years old. The lack of malolactic fermentation (house style) holds these wines in suspension somewhat; their evolution is graceful and slow. This wine is very impressive. The acidity retains freshness and verve, but the fruit shows age and savory/tertiary character.