The best of the three estate offerings, the 1990 Volnay-Clos des Santenots, exhibits a saturated dark ruby color, a rich, spicy, oaky, roasted black fruit-scented nose, and impressively endowed, fleshy flavors that are buttressed by significant tannins and alcohol. The finish is full and long. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2008. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, Chappaqua, NY.