The 1992 Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice, an all-Sangiovese, dried-grape wine, is even better despite its theoretically inferior vintage. Almost chocolate brown in color, its soaring aromas of grilled fruit, licorice, burnt sugar, dates, and marrons glaces is followed by massive, sumptuous flavors of candied dates, apricots, and bitter chocolate. The sheer density on the palate is almost more than that of a liquid. Drink: 2005-2035. Avignonesi’s line has steadily shrunk in recent years, as many of the individual wines have become blends and others have simply been dropped. The varietal Chardonnay and Sauvignon bottlings have become one wine, as have the Merlot and Cabernet, and the Pinot Noir has been eliminated. The line-up is still a strong one, however, and in certain categories competitive with Tuscany’s and Italy’s best. Importer: Dalla Terra Imports, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405