There isn’t much to say about the 1997 Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice except that it is nearly perfect. The wine flows from the bottle with an impenetrable brown coffee-like color. Sweet mocha, espresso, spice, licorice and worn-in leather aromas and flavors all meld together in a wine of unusual grace. As ususal, the style is opulent and totally full-throttle, yet the wine’s balance is superb, with all of the elements in the right place. This is a majestic Occhio di Pernice for the ages. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2029. The highlights among these new releases from Avignonesi, not surprisingly, are the Vin Santos, which in 1997 are nothing short of utterly profound. The wines actually benefit from being opened at least several hours prior to being served. As we went to press the Falvo family announced the sale of its remaining 10% holding in the winery to Virginie Saverys, director of Compagnie Maritime Belge, a Belgian shipping company. Ms. Saverys has been a shareholder since 2007. Based on the reds I have tasted here throughout the years there certainly seems to be an opportunity to increase quality in many of the wines. It is hard to imagine any proprietor in their right mind doing anything to touch the Vin Santos, as these remain some of the most profound wines in the world. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Thick and viscous, like chocolate syrup, but much sweeter, with date and prune notes on the nose and palate. Where is the ice cream? Not really wine, but still fun and impressive. Drink now. 140 cases made, 35 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Vin Santo di Montepulciano Select to Add