The only secondary label red here is the 2004 Hanenhof Shiraz, which spent 14 months in primarily French oak (30% new). Elegant and restrained by Aussie standards, with medium body, peppery plum and black currant fruit, and fine density, it should be consumed over the next 6-8 years.Importer: Benjamin Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376

An outstanding value, this wine bursts from the glass with spice, herb and brambly shadings that are nicely complex and true to the grape variety. It’s not just a fruit-filled wine, but one that offers a panopoly of briary, brambly fruit alongside plenty of spice and a meaty, sauvage component. It’s round and lush in the mouth, finishing spicy and long, with mouthwatering persistence. Drink now–2012.——J.C.(5/1/2007)—— 92