Now we're talking. The 1986 Le Pergole Torte is a beacon of greatest that comes before a string of more difficult vintages to follow. This is a magnificent and magnetic wine that is drinking superbly now, 30 years after the harvest. It shows towering complexity and elegance, with grit and power to push it forward over the palate. The 1985 vintage was immediately embraced as excellent, and many passed over 1986 as a result. But this is no sleeper wine. Indeed, it is Martino Manetti's favorite vintage, and it sets the bar for an ideal that he hopes to achieve every year. Its appearance is transparent and ruby. The bouquet offers pure Sangiovese components of wild berry, rose hip, pine nut, forest floor and dusty mineral or rust. Miraculously, there are no oxidized tones, and the evolved fruit is portrayed with pride. This wine has shown great consistency over the years for those lucky enough to revisit it. Martino describes the wine's architecture as classic: "With columns and capitals and all."