The 2008 Le Pergole Torte (Sangiovese) is more expressive in its bouquet than the Montevertine, but lacks some of that wine’s body. Hard candy, sweet red berries, flowers and spices are some of the notes that emerge from this unusually open, accessible Pergole Torte. Today, the 2008 doesn’t appear to be one of the legendary vintages of Pergole Torte, but in exchange the wine will offer very fine drinking upon release. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Montevertine’s two top 2008s are both solid, but not as differentiated as they are most years.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Martino Manetti had a motocycle accident and busted out his front teeth the year this wine was made. As a result, he was not able to taste the wine during its making. On some odd level, the 2008 Le Pergole Torte reflects that neglect. The wine is hard, compact and less yielding. It plays its cards close to its chest. The bouquet is also more austere, with candied fruit, white pepper and distant red apple aromas. The bouquet has some ripples, and this wine does not exhibit the sophisticated poise or relaxed confidence of the top-performing vintages.