This wine was bottled without filtration. The super cuvee of Villacreces, the 1998 Pruno (200 bottles produced), is reminiscent of the great Pingus made by Peter Sisseck. The Pruno is powerful, thick, chewy, and unctuously-textured, with huge quantities of black cherry, plum, and licorice-infused blackberry fruit. Sadly, because of the limited production, only a handful of readers will ever run across a bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567