Far more elegant, restrained, and less oaky is the 2006 Syrah Dakine Vineyard. This is not quite at the level of the 2007, but similar characteristics are evident – blueberries, black raspberries, damp earth, forest floor, and a floral note in a restrained, elegant overall style, with medium body and ripe tannins. Tel. (707) 433-3473; Fax (707) 433-3440

Most California Syrahs aren’t ageworthy, but this one is. It’s got a rich core of blackberries, mulberries, currants, cola, pepper and anise, but it’s also quite tannic, with an astringency that lasts through the finish. With modest alcohol, good acidity and a subtle touch of oak, it has the balance to improve over 3–5 years.——S.H.(12/15/2009)—— 92